There are no more extension cords in the kitchen! I have actual powered outlets on my counters! We used plug-mold to but strips of outlets on the under-side of the cabinets. That way, I have tons of outlets without the outlets causing a visual break in the backslash.
They were a bear to install since the metal had to be cut with a hack-saw and the whole thing had to be assembled before we could put them up. To attach the plug-mold to the cabinets, we used VHB tape. It’s super strong and sticky and has done a great job holding everything up.
This is the clear kind but there are a variety of widths and some black ones as well that are sold in more industrial settings. Stefan has used them at work for various things and after using this product, I’m a convert and have no doubt we’ll be using it again.
We have installed under-cabinet lights and they are AWESOME! We used these warm white LED ribbons and the installed quickly and easily.
The tape has an adhesive back to it was just a matter of cutting the ribbon at the appropriate spot, using these handy clips to attach to it, and connecting the wire from these clips to some lamp cord we strung to all the sections of cabinets. We soldered and heat-shrink wrapped the cord connection but Stefan and I are huge nerds and there are plenty of simpler ways to get everything wired together.
The lamp cord was strung back to the back of the top corner cabinet where we wired everything together and installed the transformer. We also used a dimmer thinking we would need to adjust the lights but the brightest setting was appropriate so the dimmer was not needed.
This is the transformer we used.
We wired the transformer power back to a switch and the result is a beautiful even under-counter glow. I love it! The lights were so easy to install, we’re thinking of running a string through the back of the upper cabinets. Since they are LED they don’t let off all the heat that the typical halogen under-cabient lights do so they are perfect for in-cabinet use as well.
They really are a neat product. I highly recommend!
The door from the kitchen to the deck was not very nice. It was serviceable but it was dented and didn’t let in nearly enough light not to mention Vector couldn’t see out the window unless you held him.
The door also opened inward which got in the way of the fridge door. We decided to do something bold and replace it with an out-swing door which is rather unusual. We made sure to follow these tips from Top Master Locksmith on how to properly install it. Since the door is in a protected area on the deck we didn’t have to worry about snow blocking the door and we don’t have a huge need for screen doors where we are, so an outswing door would work for us.
Since we were replacing the door, we figured we’d put in one big enough to get a fridge in and out of the house… So we upgraded from a 30″ wide door to a 36″ wide door and since we were opening the wall up anyways, we might as well add a side-light. So goes projects in this family…one thing leads to another. Oh, and to top it all off, Vector was extremely sick the entire weekend of this door project and we had tickets to see Charles Dutoit conduct the Boston Symphony Orchestra.
So, Saturday we got to work. First things first, drill some test holes to figure out where the studs are and use them to determine the final location of the door, there were some aluminum pieces that would get damaged as soon as we would take the door out, so we had to find Custom Aluminium WA in order to get new ones to be able to replace them.
Then cut away the drywall (thank goodness it was drywall and not plaster and lath…I love drywall soo much!). We used the Roto-Zip and a drywall bit to cut it into manageable size pieces.
Seriously, best $100 we spent on this house project. Awesome for drywall, great for cutting small holes in plaster and lath without vibrating the whole wall apart. If you intend on adding outlets to a plaster and lath house, you must buy one of these.
But, for this project, we just used it to cut drywall and pulled the drywall off a piece at a time.
After all that, it was time to head to Symphony Hall. We got dressed up, took a picture in our green-swatch ridden kitchen, and headed downtown.
The next day, we pulled off the aluminum siding on the outside of the house and pulled the old door out frame, threshold, and all. And it got cold…real cold.
We cut the opening larger by shimming out from the existing beams so that we had a line to follow with the Sawzall. Another $100 well spent on that sawzall.
Now there was an even bigger hole in the side of my kitchen.
For the header of the new door, we used a sandwich of 2x12s and plywood. Stefan wrote our names in construction adhesive. My kind of romance!
With much heaving, we managed to get the header in place and the vertical header supports nailed in. A framing nailer is key for this job.
You can see it’s starting to get darker and colder. This was daylight savings weekend so by 5, it’s dusk and by 6 it’s dark and of course, it was cold, damp, and windy on Sunday and beautiful and sunny on Saturday.
With my friend from https://www.keyslocksla.com/, we managed to get the door in and level before I froze to death and we got it shimmed in, nailed, and foamed up.
We’re still waiting on the lockset to arrive. We picked out this beautiful set from House of Antique Hardware.
It was pricey but the door ended up costing less than I had budgeted so we went ahead and sprung for it.
Reference: Access Locksmiths homepage.
So, I painted the kitchen the same color as the bedroom office nook. Here it is in the office nook:
It looks great. It’s a nice light, bright, grown-up green. But in the Kitchen…
It’s just too blue. It’s decidedly a mint color instead of a green. I’m going for a vintagey green but not a turquoise.
What do you think? Should I plan on darkening it a bit? Go a little greener and less blue? Both darker and greener?